TOP HONOUR FOR AN ICON
A man, widely respected for his knowledge of the arid zone, history, and the Anglo Boer war, is to be honoured by the University of the Free State. Johan Loock, who also helped distinguished author James Mitchener with research for his acclaimed novel, The Covenant, will be awarded an honorary doctorate for his exceptional efforts in the fields of geology and earth sciences at a special function at the university on September 16. Always ready to share his knowledge with anyone keen to learn, Johan is a well-known figure of the veld in his faded blue jacket and floppy khaki hat. These are easily recognisable, even at a distance, and they often bring farmers dashing across the plains to join him for a cup of his exceptional condensed milk tea. Virtually all masters’ and post graduate students that he has guided on field trips will attest to the fact that Johan seems to be fuelled by an endless supply of this particular brew. A giant in his field Johan was honoured 20 years ago when one of the smallest fossils in the world, a tiny arthropod, only a few millimetres long, was named in his honour. This was found in 1979 when he took an eminent American palaeontologist on a field trip. The other fossil which shares his name is a fish fossil. It was named to honour him for his service to palaeontology. Johan, one of the country’s top experts on fish fossils, last year proudly donated the many boxes of literature he had collected on this subject to the Bernard Price Institute in Johannesburg.
IN VENERATION OF A MASTER
Johan Loock, who has been a senior lecturer at the University of the Free State for 32 years, now teaches a Masters’ Degree Course in Environmental Management. His students adore him and languish in the legends surrounding him. One of these tells of his ability to catch a dassie (hyrax) and turn it into a delicious stew using little more that veld herbs. True or false? Who would know? Sudents respectfully call him “OomLoock” or “Malome”, a South Sotho term for a special uncle, guide, mentor or advisor – someone to go to even before you approach your parents with a problem. The name was given to him by Professor Maitland Seaman. Word of mouth about this special man and his teaching has brought Namibian students to the university. They call him Tata Kulu” a term reserved for wise, father figures – people to look up to, curators of knowledge. On September 16, this year, experts and arid zone enthusiasts proudly gather to Johan Loock, an icon of the Karoo.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SALUTES THE KAROO
National Geographic’s news editor David Braun recently took a closer look at the Karoo in his “Eye on the World” column. In an article entitled South Africa’s Karoo Heartland, posted on the magazine’s website on July 12, 2009, he points out that the highly respected international environmental organisation, World Wildlife Foundation (WWF), calls the Karoo as “the world’s most extraordinary desert”. This designation, says David, makes the Karoo the only entirely arid biodiversity “hotspot” in the world. “One third of the world’s succulents grow in the fossil-rich Karoo, which is also home to a host of interesting insects, reptiles and animals. Way back early European explorers recorded vast herds of migrating springbok and to this day these migrations remain unexplained. Then, on the fringes of this desert, created by the cold Benguela current coursing up the west coast of southern Africa, one of the greatest spectacles of nature can be seen for a few weeks each year when the veld is carpeted with a profusion of red, purple, yellow and white wild flowers.” David was encouraged to take this in-depth look at the region by journalists Chris and Julie Marais who sent their recently published book, Karoo Keepsakes, to him for review. He praised the book on the NatGeo’s News Watch webpage saying “it showcases the awesome scenery, magnificent wildlife and eccentric characters of the Karoo as it reveals and celebrates South Africa’s best-kept travel secret. This book reminds me of those old coloured postcards that sell for exorbitant prices, but it is different because its photographs document what can still be seen in this genuinely unique part of the world.”
ARCHITECUTURAL HERITAGE DRAWS THE ENTHUSIASTS
Old farm homesteads, ‘brakdaks’, gables, churches and a variety of historic buildings are bringing the Venacular Architectural Society of South Africa to the Karoo in September. VASSA members plan to visit the Prince Albert area from September 24 to 27. On arrival on Thursday afternoon they will be welcomed at the historic Fransie Pienaar Museum, then whisked off to Gordon’s Koppie and the old Kweekvallei farm to enjoy a cheese tasting at Gay’s Guernsey Dairy. Later they will see the old werf at Vergelegen and enjoy an evening in a barn at the Bushcamp on Judy Maguire’s farm. A 170km round trip is planned for Friday to see gabled Victorian houses and other interesting structures on farms such as Baviaanskloof, Remhoogte, Zwartskraal and Tierberg. The group will also visit the old church and hall at Seekoegat, to study the buildings, graves and a little organ donated by Cecil John Rhodes. Then they will visit the sadly neglected, double-storey brakdak hotel, featured in Gawie Fagan’s book, Brakdak, explore Klaarstroom on foot and lunch at the Victorian Guest House in this picturesque little village. On Saturday they will visit a Sophie Gray church, enjoy koeksisters and coffee at a truly vernacular cottage and, in the afternoon, visit Albert’s Mill and the farm, Damascus, as well as some superb scenic spots in foothills of the Swartberg. Saturday will include a tour of Prince Albert’s architectural heritage sites and dinner in the Victoria Room at the Swartberg Hotel. En route to Cape Town on Sunday the group will visit Abrahamskraal, the Drie Riviere Reserve where they will be told the macabre story of the lonely grave at Grafsteenvlakte.
ZULU ARTISTS SHINE IN PRINCE ALBERT …
Three young Zulu artists recently stunned residents and visitors to Prince Albert when they exhibited a range of oils, water colours and acrylics painted in and around the village. Welcome Danca and Bheki Khambule (both recipients of the START Nivea Art Award) and their colleague, the highly acclaimed Lalelani Mbhele, are part of Vulindlela Art and Design Institute, the first fully-fledged BEE art and design initiative in South Africa. While their work was on display at the Art Gallery in Prince Albert, they were on hand to sip umqombothi – traditional beer – and discuss their paintings in detail. This was the first exhibition of its kind to be held in the Karoo and, during the opening cocktail party, each artist each gave a short talk on what motivated and inspired them. This was followed up by a slide show detailing the work of Vulindlela Art and Design Institute.
… AND LEAVE BEHIND A MURAL
Welcome, Behki and Lalelani, originally came to Prince Albert to create a mural at the home of international Art Consultant Hennie Boshoff. While working on this huge project, entitled – Ezulwini Nasesihogweni [Heaven and Hell], the three fell under the spell of the Karoo and began working on several smaller paintings in their spare time and when they took a break from their major task. They, however, never lost sight of “Heaven and Hell” and the completed work now covers the entire western façade of Hennie’s house. Those who’ve seen it say, “it seems to burst from the arid khaki veld and, in an almost surreal way, shines out from among the aloes, cacti and Karoo plants.” Since its completion this awe-inspiring piece has become a tourist attraction. A well-known art enthusiast, Hennie is the curator of the Azazel Institute, a non-profit arts foundation that sponsors, develops and showcases exceptional works and creativity. Many say his Prince Albert home, Villa Kruger, is rather like the Owl House in New Bethesda. Considered to be one of Prince Albert’s interesting inhabitants, Hennie conducts regular Full Moon Art Tours. These are a must for those with a zest for life, love of nature and enjoyment of the extraordinary.
HUNTING THE ‘FAT’ OF THE LAND
Three young Graaff-Reinet farmers had “a very successful hunt” in July 1856. Robert Bain, of Quagga’s Valley, one of William Southey’s farms, George Murray of Naude’s Berg and his youngest brother, Walter, in three days shot 88 springbok, two wildebeest, or gnus, all of which were in excellent condition, on the extensive flats around Cephanjes Poort, Kol Hoek and Zaayfontein. The springbok, said Bain, were as fat as such game can get. Fortunately, they took along a strong wagon as these 90 carcasses were very heavy. “Nothing, however, was left behind or lost,” said Bain. “The weather was very cold; but I have often hunted in this area and I have known fresh meat in these parts to keep good for nearly a month without any salt in a good cold winter.” Both Robert and George made a vast quantity of biltong. Robert Wilson, who had joined in the chase on the first day, had to retire when his horse came down at a gallop and smashed the stock of his rifle. He was badly shaken, but uninjured.
WINTER SOLSTICE DELIVERS THE MAGIC
Visitors, who went to the Moordenaars Karoo to observe the Winter Solstice, had a wonderful experience. The group was on its way to watch the sunset over Magia, the Indo-Quena temple, where these ancient people danced, feasted and drank their intoxicating drinks, when suddenly on a steep rise they were overtaken by a sudden rain storm. Nobody wanted to turn back and fortunately by the time they reached Magia and parked the rain stopped. As they walked up the hill towards the temple bright red sunlight burst through the clouds and a rainbow appeared framing the entire site. “It was quite beautiful and a rare sight in the arid Karoo,” said tour leader Dr Cyril Hromnik. “In fact, it was one of the most beautiful sights I have ever seen. The temple on the hilltop is built of stone megaliths mixed with smaller stone, all of which have a deep rich, reddish colour. The rain enhanced the colour and the sunlight intensified it. This breathtaking image was made even more beautiful by a rainbow. As we watched a second rainbow appeared making it a truly enchanting spectacle.” Cyril regularly takes groups to sites in the Moordenaars Karoo, an ancient place he refers to as Quena-ku (Quenaland), to celebrate the Equinoxes. The next expedition will salute the Spring Equinox from September 18 to 21.
FREAK GUN SHOT STARTLES FAMILY
The vagaries of weather are a fundamental part of hinterland history. Violent storms often frighten the locals, but leave farmers with good stories to tell. This was the case in Clumber Valley, near Grahamstown in 1847. The Grahamstown Journal of February 27, 1847, reported that a heavier than usual thunderstorm had passed from west to east on Saturday and hung for longer than normal over the valley. Residents said the flashing lightning was awesome. Suddenly a bolt of lightning struck the kitchen chimney of Joseph Bradfield’s house and set the roof on fire. “My loaded gun was standing in the corner of the room discharged without anyone touching it. The sudden loud explosion terrified the entire family,” said Joseph. “I can only think this discharge was caused by the lightning’s electric field passing from the wall to the floor and then into the gun. Two of my children were sleeping, with their heads not more than 6 inches from the wall and gun. Fortunately, neither was injured, but both boys said they felt as if they had been in the midst of a fire. A ball of light shot through the room, passed out of the window and carried a considerable distance before it landed in the field. The window frame was damaged but that, I think, was from the gunshot. I can only thank the Lord that none of the ten people in my little house was injured that night. This was a storm that will long be remembered.”
ONE CELEBRATION TOO MANY
Perhaps Piet Jacobs did not expect to be welcomed when staggered home to Zuurberg, a Sneeuberg farm, on January 4, 1854, after “seeing in the New Year.” He surely never expected the reception he did get. Piet had been out carousing many times before and, “always after a little coldness and some shouting”, his wife, Fietjie, calmed down. This time, however, she “lost her rag.” Pier told his story to the police a few hours before he died on January 20. As he walked into his home on January 4, he said, a quarrel broke out between himself, his wife and daughter. His wife ran screaming from the house and returned with Izaak van Aswegen and David Benadie. “They immediately knocked me down, kicked me, and beat me with their fists. David trod on me while Izaak put a riem (leather thong) around my neck and almost choked me by twisting it tight. They then dragged me to a vice and screwed my leg tight in it. My wife and daughter helped them do this. Frederic Potgieter came dashing across the road in answer to my screams and asked what was happening. Izaak said I was a vagabond and ordered Frederic to hold me while he flogged me. Izaak said he had money to pay Frederic. So, Frederic took hold of one of my arms, while my wife and daughter held the other. Isaak went and got a candle – which he lit, so they could see what they were doing – then with straps and belts they proceeded to beat me severely. After that they all kicked and beat me for about an hour. I was faint and nearly dead when they let me go. I managed to get to Jan Coetjee’s place, the next day I went to Patrys Fontein, the day after that to Goliad’s Kraal, and the following day to Graaff-Reinet. It was Sunday, but still I went to the police. They told me to come back on Monday. I did, but the constables said they had so much to do that day that I must go away and come on Wednesday. So, I did that and on Wednesday saw Mr. Watson, who told me that Mr. Berrange was out of town and nothing could be done. I then went to Bloemhof and laid my complaint before Mr. G. Southey, the Justice of the Peace, and declared that all the marks and bruises on my body, except a cut on my wrist, were caused by the beating given to me by Izaak van Azwegen, David Benadie, Frederic Potgieter, Fietje October and Roselyn July.” They were all arrested and brought before Magistrate Dyason, but by that time, poor old Piet was dead.
DAMN FINE STORY
Small places are often guardians of wonderful tales. Darlington, a tiny hamlet, which ended in a dam, is a case in point. It was officially founded in 1905 by a hawker and Eastern Cape farmer, P.W.F. Weyers, who harboured a life-long grudge against the Boers because they shot and killed two of his cows on Bedrogsfontein Pass during the Anglo-Boer War. Weyers’s farm in time grew into a settlement with fruit orchards, vineyards, hotel, post office, shop, smithy and several houses. One of the hamlet’s best-known inhabitants was Dr Reginald Koettlitz, the senior medical officer who travelled with Captain Robert Scott’s first expedition to Antarctica (1901-1904). When blame was laid at his door because Scott’s men contracted scurvy, he returned to South Africa and took refuge in Darlington. He later moved to Cradock where he is buried. Darlington disappeared when Lake Mentz was built to supply irrigation water to Sundays River Valley farmers in 1922. The first chairman of the Irrigation Board was Sir Percy Fitzpatrick, author of Jock of the Bushveld, who said: “Colonel Hendrik Mentz, then Minister of Land Affairs, granted permission for the building of the dam, but he was not popular, so when it was suggested that the dam be named in his honour someone exclaimed: ‘Oh, damn Mentz!’ ‘No,’ came a prompt retort, ‘Lake Mentz!’” The name was changed to Darlington Dam in 1990.
AN AGREEABLE OLD ENGLISH CUSTOM!
Graaff-Reinet was considered to be “quite lively place” in 1854. “What with the Dissolving Views, the Races and our Cricket Clubs, we are really going ahead,” reported The Graaff-Reinet Advertiser. “To be sure there is very little business going on just now but, in the midst of this melancholy, we will find some gaiety in the celebration of a Grand Match, on July 31, between our two Cricket Clubs. The challenge was given by The Tradesmen and cordially accepted by The Gentlemen. This altercation will be for bats and balls – an agreeable old English custom – and not for money. The number of spectators is expected to be considerable, as both parties feel quite confident of a win.”
FLOOD CAUSES A DEVASTATING LOSS
Hinterland floods can be costly. Of one in the Eastern Cape Karoo in February 1848, William Bear wrote: “The recent flood was fearsome. The water rose so rapidly that it was impossible to remove any effects from the buildings. Mr Wiggle’s fine mill was completely demolished. The force of the water was so great that it carried a 4ft in diameter and 8-inch-thick millstone a distance of 700 yards. The wagon maker and smith’s establishments were swept away and with them went all my wagon maker’s tools, new wagon chests, two newly painted wagons, four almost completed wagons, wood for 15 more and my household furniture worth about £800. I also lost 300 sheep. My house and farm buildings were badly damaged. The Westebars are destitute. They lost everything, escaping only in the clothing they were wearing. He now has no tools to start a business.” Bear appealed to anyone “down stream” who might find tools on the river banks to return them. “Most tradesmen carve their names onto their tools. I am sure all will be happy to reward an honest man for returning any tool he finds.”
REMEMBERED – AFTER 67 YEARS!
Carel Schouten, who grew up in Beaufort West, regularly visits the Karoo. Each time he drives towards his old home town he languishes in memories of his happy childhood in the area. During his school days Carel spent many weekends and holidays on farms, such as Springfontein, about 30km south of town. “It belonged to Boy Nigrini who had three or four sons,” says Carel. ‘I will never forget the day when we were out playing in the veld and a small plane crashed into a low hill only a few kilometres from the farmhouse. We were horrified. The pilot was killed. Each time I travel to Beaufort West – which is frequent – I remember that day and I always glance at the hill and wonder what caused the accident. From what I remember the accident happened fairly late one afternoon and I think the plane that went down was one of two or three that were flying to Cape Town. If I remember correctly one was piloted by Japie Kruger, the brother of a school friend of mine. On a recent visit to Beaufort West I noticed a small memorial had been erected on the hill where the accident happened. Being curious I stopped and walked over to it. It stands about 200 metres to the east of the N1. It has a plaque which reads: ‘Erected to the memory of second lieutenant Desmond Thornhill Gilfillan, of the South African Air Force and a son of the Karoo, who lost his life in the service of his country in a flying accident near this spot on July 8, 1942.’ I imagine the memorial was erected by his family or friends but would love to know why this was only erected 67 years after the accident.”
One way to get the most out of life is to look upon it as an adventure – William Feather
